TUNIS – UNIVERSNEWS – Ras El Am est un moment propice pour perpétuer les traditions culinaires propres à ce jour et qui sont respectueusement observées. Ainsi à l’occasion de l’An de l’Hégire, Ras El Am, l’Association de la sauvegarde de la ville de Nabeul organise, les 17 et 18 juillet 2023, la 13ème édition du festival des poupées de sucre à Dar Nabeul. C’est une tradition fatimide qui date depuis 969 et qui a émigré vers la Sicile sous la dynastie des Kalbites et depuis les siciliens l’ont introduit à Nabeul. En Sicile, on trouve encore les traditions de la fabrication des poupées de sucre pour les fêtes religieuses telles que celles de Pâques et de la Toussaint ».L’événement ne laisse personne indifférent. Mais on ne peut se passer de cette fête très attendu par nos enfants qui, reçoivent, à cette occasion un methred de fruits secs, de dattes, d’œufs durs, de bonbons, d’amandes, de morceaux de sucre et garni au centre par une statuette de sucre moulée et colorée représentant des animaux (coq, gazelle, lion), ou des personnages (poupée, cavalier).
Chevaux et poupées de sucre
La star du moment est la fameuse poupée de sucre. Il suffit de sillonner l’avenue Farhat Hached à Nabeul pour découvrir cette ambiance particulière du Ras El Am. Des dizaines d’étalages exposent une série de sucreries et surtout des poupées et des chevaux en sucre, aux couleurs vives, qui essaient de retrouver leur gloire d’antan face à la concurrence des poupées en plastique. C’est une tradition purement nabeulienne. Le cheval est offert aux garçons et la poupée aux filles. Une symbolique bien claire.
En cette occasion, les familles achètent pour les enfants, et aussi pour les jeunes mariés, un assortiment de bonbons, fruits secs et de poupées. Ils seront mis dans un « methred » (plat creux avec un pied) avec au centre la statuette de sucre achetée. Les vendeurs de poupées, qui ne sont dans la majorité des cas que des intermédiaires et non les fabricants eux-mêmes, jouent aux spéculateurs. Là, les bonbons attendent preneurs ! Plus loin, c’est la boutique des poupées. Il y a du choix, des couleurs ! Se décider pour un, demande du temps et de la réflexion! C’est une tradition fatimide qui date depuis 1969. Cette tradition égyptienne a émigré vers la Sicile sous la dynastie des Kalbites et depuis les siciliens l’ont introduit à Nabeul. En Sicile, on trouve encore les traditions de la fabrication des poupées de sucre pour les fêtes religieuses telles que celles de Pâques et de la Toussaint».
Une fête sucrée salée !
L’an de l’Hégire ne laisse personne indifférent. Il se fête à Nabeul aujourd’hui avec le couscous doré et sucré, symbole de baraka et de bon augure. Ce couscous, explique Zohra, est préparé avec de la viande séchée au « quadid » de l’Aïd et les andouillettes sèches et épicées (ousbène chayeh). Cette viande séchée au quadid est faite avec l’épaule droite du mouton sacrifié le jour de l’Aïd El Kébir. La veille de Ras El Am, de nombreuses ménagères nabeuliennes qui ont reçu les recettes de ce plat de génération en génération, s’appliquent à préparer ce couscous. Une recette sucré-salé qui mélange fruits secs croquants et viande salée. C’est un couscous de fête et de célébration.
M.S.
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